Fourth Entry -- Making Friends

Traveling alone has its advantages, but at some point, it's nice to talk to somebody…maybe take a stroll together or go out for a beer. One night I gave in and went to a touristy area hoping to have a conversation or two. Found a decent restaurant/bar crowded with happy travelers and sat down for a vino. Soon I noticed three different groups of English speakers around me. I was still learning my tapas etiquette, so I turned and asked the nice Scottish couple behind me what they were having. They turned me on to sausage chunks in apple cider with fried potatoes. Figures! sigh…again, not a green veggie in sight. But I obliged and enjoyed the atmosphere. I was even treated to a gratis liquor from the cute bartender once he saw I was dining alone. Never hurts to a flirt a little too…some things are universal after all!

My new "dead friends" -- the Granada Cemetery

Next I wandered into a smaller place advertising paella (a traditional, Spanish rice dish). Sitting at the bar, I ordered "una cana y tapa, por favor." That bartender shook his head. In broken English, laced with his thick Spanish accent he said, "No. You don't order a cana and tapa." He went on to explain the custom of bars *offering* a free tapa when you order a drink, but patrons don't *order* a free tapa. That's considered rude. Ok. My bad. I get it now. So being good humored about it, I asked him to explain a few other things…you know, the important things when ordering drinks. He showed me the difference between a 'cana' and a 'tubo' (small glass of beer vs. a larger glass of beer…like glass vs. pint). And a 'vaso'  of wine vs. a 'copa'. By this time, we're bonding and joking around. He's telling me how he came about opening the bar and how he's opening a larger restaurant in a few days. Meanwhile, I'm cracking up, because my new friend here, Kiki, is enjoying using his English, including the numerous F bombs coloring his every few words. Made me wonder how many R-rated American movies he'd been watching! Soon, another customer walks by and peers inside, promptly flustering another young server, Stephanie. Kiki gladly explains to me that last week she had "F-ed that guy" and found out he had an "F-ing tiny p-n-s" and didn't want to "F-ing see that guy again." Wow! Welcome to the local paella bar! Kiki and I were laughing so hard. Poor Stephanie was red as a beet and just kept whipping Kiki with her bar towel. Couldn't help adding to Kiki's "vocabulary" and shared with him what we call guys in America with "tiny p-n-ses." I left that night with, another, free drink and my first Spanish double-cheek kiss from my new friends. 

A few nights later, I'm walking home after being online at my local Wi-Fi joint. The heavens opened up and I saw THE SIGN --  big, yellow, beautiful letters: KARAOKE TONIGHT! What?!? No way!!! Are you kidding me?! Honestly, I couldn't believe it. So yeah, I made my way in there to follow my good luck. Turned out, it was an Irish pub filled with British students and ex-pats. (Later that night more students arrived…one was from Beaverton. huh!) So of course I sing a few songs, chat up my new friends Nia & John (the bartenders), Nicola (a regular customer), and Zach (the KJ). That night I also met Kelly, a chef turned massage therapist from North Carolina who was escaping a few hours from her father and the rest of the seniors on the bus tour she was on (we got her good and pissed!). At one point, we're all dancing to John's rendition of Tom Jones "It's Not Unusual" (which, actually I think he sang about 3 different times). And enjoyed *more* free shots (holy cow!) from Nia. Sheepishly, I admit…I stumbled home rather late that night/morning. And yes, I'll be going back! :-)

Amy and I outside Escuela Montalban

The real turning point came one morning as I sat at my little table studying my map and having coffee, or whatever it was I was doing that day. My window was open, as it usually is following my run in with the neighbor downstairs and trying to stay cool. Through the windows, I overheard the woman next door speaking English…American English! Later, I introduced myself. We've been best buddies since! Amy is a physician from New Mexico living in Granada for several weeks like I am. She's also traveling alone, although her companion is joining her soon. Aside from our personalities clicking and sharing a similar outlook on, well, life in general, I love that my new amiga has been to Granada before and is much further along in her Spanish skills…I'm SO lucky to have met her! We've done several things together so far. She took me to one of the best heladerias (ice cream shops) in town (the place I heard Michelle Obama likes so much). We've had some wonderful walks around our neighborhood. Spent an evening out hopping tapas bars, practicing Spanish, bragging about our kids, and laughing til tears about our equally embarrassing experiences with the tiny washing machine (what I like to call the "cheese grater") in our flats. "Symbols!" we cried together! "The damn thing doesn't even use Spanish words and we can't understand how to use it!!" baahaaahaaa!! Hilarious!! (Guess you had to be there.) Had such a blast that night. I'm so glad for her company, especially the next day when…

…I locked myself out of my flat!!! I'd been dreadfully afraid this would happen. There I was. No keys. No phone. And no coat. Hadn't needed a coat until then. It's been so damn hot. But this was the day a storm came through and I hadn't paid attention. It was pouring down rain and suddenly cold. I'm locked outside in a tank top with just my camera and wallet. Didn't take my Spanish phone cuz I was only going for a stroll. GGGRRR!! My first thought was Amy. I knew she could help figure out a solution. Unfortunately, she wasn't home. Hopefully she hadn't left for the weekend. So for the next hour, I sat under cover, on a bench in our courtyard looking up at the strange, crazy-ugly orange trees that Amy and I just the night before had laughed about. I ran through all the possible options in my head. At least I've got another story for my travel blog, right? Great.

In the end, Amy came home and gave me a comfortable, friendly place to dry off, warm up, and wait until my landlady's husband came to let me in. Luckily, I did have my iPhone with me, so I was able to use the Wi-Fi down the street and send an email. Thank GOODNESS Mabel checks her email often! The reward was meeting little Africa, Mabel's off-the-charts-adorable 3-year-old, bilingual daughter who wrapped her sweet tiny arms around mine and Amy's necks and cuddled and hugged us like she's known us her entire life. We decided Spanish children are the most lovable in the world. And now I have a new, very young amiga. YAY!

My fellow classmates and Paco

That following Monday, I enrolled in Spanish lessons at the Escuela Montalban -- a local language school for travelers and exchange students. I'd been debating which school to use, but, as luck would have it, Amy was also going there, so it made sense to choose it as well. I'm glad I did! It's been incredibly helpful and has truly made the difference between feeling alone here and (now) having some community. All this last week, I've been studying with my fellow classmates: Katie and Avril (from England), Juul (from Holland), Fumi (from Japan), and Moonkie (the quirky, hippie artist from Sweden…who, when talking, mixes together Swedish, English, and Spanish, which cracks me up and screws me up all at the same time! She and I have had some great laughs about that! ha ha). And I can't leave out Paco & Berna. Our most wonderful (and insanely patient) Spanish teachers.

As any good language school would, Escuela Montalban organizes various activities for students to do together, learn a bit about the area, and practice Spanish in a comfortable environment. The other night, three of us "bathed" together at the Hammam Public Bath house. It's basically a dimly lit, aromatic spa where guests wander from room to room soaking in tubs. You dip in the warm pool then the hot tub. Sit in the steam room then take a cold bath. And around and around again until finally you get a 15 minute massage. It's a bit of a tourist attraction, but still quite nice. Supposedly, the building was a 13th century structure at the base of the Alhambra. Archeological research indicates the original moorish bath houses of Granada were in that exact location. You can see more here: www.hammamalandalus.com

Javier our paella chef & instructor

Wednesday I took in a cooking class…more of a demonstration really. We learned how to make paella. It was good. I took notes. I'll make some for you when I get back. Not much more to say about that honestly. You can see the picture down below. Had more fun going out for a drink with some of the other students afterwards. Although I was the only American in a group of Europeans, it was fascinating hearing their travel stories and experiences dealing with challenging cultures and oppressive governments in other countries…especially those of 20 - 30 years ago. I couldn't exactly participate in these specific conversations, but I listened. And I thought momentarily about my freedoms in America, and, sadly, much of what we take for granted. My new British friend, Katie, talked about living awhile in Romania teaching English. She was astounded (and pleasantly surprised) by how enthusiastically teenagers discussed politics and current events. This was shortly after the fall of their fascist government. For the first time in their lives, citizens were able to *freely* discuss such topics! I personally cannot relate. Thankfully! But what a great reminder. And at the risk of getting too heavy here, I must briefly comment…THIS is precisely why I love traveling to other countries. Sure, it's fun to experience different foods and schedules and architecture and so forth. But peering into another world and hearing, first-hand, people's stories are the best way, I know of, to see a side of the human condition that I might not otherwise get to know. It feeds me! It makes me feel alive. It gives me purpose. And it forever teaches me to be gracious and open to all the many, many ways of life that can be experienced here on earth.

So hell yeah, I say, to meeting new people!! This has definitely been my best week in Spain (so far)!! I'm sure this is only the beginning. 

PS -- the fun stuff isn't ending either. Tonight I'm going to a nightclub where locals Tango dance, and tomorrow Amy and I are taking a train to Ronda…a small Andalucian, "white-hill village" that straddles an enormous, geological ravine, clustered by ancient, Arabic ruins.